Since being honored as the most spectacular Portuguese village, Monsanto has been largely shielded from modernization. Several houses near the village entrance are surprisingly grand, some sporting Manueline doorways and stone crests. Midway to the castle you will come over the gruta; a snug cavern supposedly once used as a drinking retreat, and still used as such, judging by the half-empty glasses of beer inside.
The Castelo
This formidable stone fortress appears almost to have grown out of the boulder-littered hillside that sustains it. It is a hauntingly beautiful site, populated by lizards and wildflowers. Immense sights include Spain to the east and the Barragem da Idanha dam to the southwest. Just below the entrance is a plaza used for folk dances at festival time. To the right is a ruined Renaissance church and bell tower, as well as five ancient tombs carved into the rock.
Festivals and Events
On May, Monsanto comes alive in the Festa das Cruzes, commemorating a medieval siege. The story goes that the starving villagers threw their last lonely calf over the walls, taunting their besiegers as if they had plenty to spare. And apparently, their attackers were hoodwinked, because they promptly abandoned the siege. These days, young girls throw baskets of flowers instead, after which there is dancing and singing beside the castle walls.
Getting There and Away
Without a car, Monsanto can be difficult to reach. The Rede Expressos usually has one bus daily to Castelo Branco, but departure times often change. There is often additional service during the school year and an extra afternoon bus on Sundays. Ask at the Turismo in either Monsanto or Castelo Branco for the latest schedule. But the best way to enjoy transportation in Monsanto is to hire your taxi.
Sleeping and Eating
Estalagem de Monsanto; near the village entrance, this modern inn, built in a somewhat successful effort to mimic the stone houses around it, offers spacious, comfortable digs, and a few with grandstand views. There is also a restaurant downstairs.
There is also the Lapa da Moura that has exquisite and tasty specials. However, the hotel has no sign; all you have to look for is the knife-and-fork symbol outside.
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